el zarcillo 25 years gran canaria

El Zarcillo: 25 years of Canarian cuisine and wine

El Zarcillo: 25 years of respect for the past and hope for the future

El Zarcillo belongs to that rare class of restaurant which reaches a quarter-century milestone by looking back with reverence and forward with enthusiasm. It does so with the calm assurance of its new owner, Génesis Fernández, who has taken the baton from Mario Reyes — the man who opened it 25 years ago. Yet Fernández carries this responsibility with the serenity of someone who has been immersed in the place for 12 years, knowing how to resist passing trends, refine the offering, and never lose the essence: wine as a language in its own right, and a Canarian cuisine faithful to its land but never static. The change of ownership has not altered this identity; if anything, it has strengthened it.

The restaurant has passed into the hands of the man who was already its chef: Génesis Fernández, a Gran Canarian born in La Isleta. He is a cook trained on the island, with a career that has grown without fuss, built on hard work, consistency, and an unwavering loyalty to local produce. His discreet but steady rise places him today among the chefs most devoted to the traditional Canarian recipe book to be found anywhere on the island of Gran Canaria.

Born as a wine bar, still a wine destination

El Zarcillo began life as an enoteca, and that vocation remains its great hallmark. Mario Reyes imagined it as a space where wine would take centre stage, with an extensive list, attentive service, and an experience combining pleasure with discovery. That philosophy remains intact. The house continues to view wine not as a mere accompaniment, but as an essential part of the gastronomic narrative. This alliance with wine is still in full force, finding natural continuity in the relationship with Viñátigos and Mario Reyes — a bond that forms part of the project’s DNA. At El Zarcillo, wine does not simply decorate: it structures the meal, whether by the bottle or by the glass. And on an island where many tables still treat wine pairing as an afterthought, that distinction is a clear one.

Cuisine that speaks through flavour and detail

Génesis Fernández’s cooking is becoming increasingly recognisable because it does not need to shout to make an impression. He works with local produce, through a contemporary lens, and lets the flavour, technique, and detail speak for him. In this sense, El Zarcillo remains faithful to a very Canarian idea of cooking: depth, produce, memory, and a certain naturalness of gesture. At the table, this translates into dishes that connect with the territory and with emotion. His falafel-style starter alone is reason enough to sit down, because it sums up that desire to surprise without upsetting the restaurant’s equilibrium. Add to that the bread from Amaro’s bakery in Ingenio — a seemingly small decision that says a great deal about how the details are cared for here, including the butter, homemade and handcrafted in these kitchens.

Classics and seasonal surprises

The menu combines very recognisable classics with off-menu suggestions that justify the visit. Still present are already legendary items such as the Ibéricos tortilla, made to order, or the house Russian salad — two dishes that help explain why El Zarcillo has managed to build such loyalty among its clientele without sacrificing a certain comforting familiarity. But El Zarcillo does not live on memories alone. These days, memorable off-menu options appear, such as the Santa Brígida peas with egg yolk. Special mention must go to the ropa vieja marina, made with desalted fish and worked with an almost domestic logic, as if gathering the memory of leftovers from a sancocho stew, but elevated here to fine, well-resolved territory. On this occasion, the presence of Aquanaria sea bass lifts the dish even further, placing it at that point where tradition and technique shake hands without pretence.

A sweet finish and a sense of continuity

The sweet finale maintains the standard. The crème brûlée is flavoursome and well executed, but it is the huevos moles — a traditional Canarian dessert — that leaves a more personal, emotional mark, because it recovers an indigenous sweet that returns many of us to childhood. That ability to activate memory without falling into easy nostalgia is, in fact, one of El Zarcillo’s most solid virtues.

In a gastronomic landscape often dominated by noise, El Zarcillo continues to bet on something else: consistency, judgement, and a clear identity, both in the kitchen and in a dining room that works with the same finesse, elegance, and quiet poise that its dishes convey. Fady continues to transmit magic with his smile and natural grace; he is one of those waiters who, as Pitu Roca says, radiates happiness, and that reaches the diner.

Here’s to another 25 years

After 25 years, the restaurant is not just still standing: it still makes sense. And in that quiet continuity lies its strength. Here’s to another 25 years.

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