Playa de Nogales is one of the most beautiful and dramatic beaches on La Palma — and one of the hardest to reach. Hidden at the foot of sheer cliffs rising over 100 metres on the island’s north-east coast, this wild beach of dark sand is a place where the raw power of the Atlantic meets volcanic scenery in a truly breathtaking way. But beauty comes at a price — the descent is steep and swimming is dangerous.
The descent — 300 steps down
The only way to reach Playa de Nogales is via a steep path with concrete steps — over 300 of them. The walk down takes around 15 to 20 minutes, but the climb back up — in the heat and with heavy legs — is a proper workout. The path is maintained but slippery and narrow in places. You need proper footwear (no flip-flops!) and a bottle of water.
The starting point is at the mirador (viewpoint) above the beach — worth a visit in its own right. The view from the top, looking down the sheer cliff face onto the narrow strip of dark sand and crashing waves, is one of the most spectacular on La Palma.
The beach — beautiful and dangerous
Swimming at Playa de Nogales is officially advised against due to strong currents and high waves. The beach is fully exposed to the open Atlantic, with no natural shelter whatsoever. Rip currents here are exceptionally strong and unpredictable. Several people have lost their lives over the years. There are no lifeguards. Only wade in ankle-deep — and only when the sea is exceptionally calm.
The beach itself stretches for about 500 metres, with coarse, dark grey sand. Huge boulders lie at the foot of the cliffs, and succulent plants cling to the rock face. This is a place of raw, untamed beauty — not a beach for sunbathing with a cocktail, but for contemplating the sheer force of nature.
When to go
Conditions are best from May to September, when the ocean is calmer and the steps less slippery. In winter, waves can reach the very base of the cliffs, and the beach is sometimes completely submerged. Check the weather forecast and sea conditions before planning your visit. Avoid the descent after rain — the path becomes dangerously slippery.
Practical information
- Getting there: by car from Santa Cruz de La Palma on the LP-1 north to Puntallana, then local roads to the Playa de Nogales viewpoint. About 25 minutes. Parking at the viewpoint.
- Public transport: bus to Puntallana (line 100), then about 3 km on foot to the trailhead.
- Facilities: none — no toilets, no showers, no lifeguards. Bring water and food.
- Footwear: trainers or hiking shoes are essential — the steps are steep and slippery in places.
- Swimming: officially advised against. Strong currents, no lifeguards, real danger to life.
Nearby beaches
- Playa de Los Cancajos — 20 minutes south by car, La Palma’s main tourist beach with full facilities.
- Charco Azul — natural volcanic pools in San Andrés y Sauces, about 15 minutes north.
- Playa de Santa Cruz — the city beach in the capital, about 20 minutes by car.