Playa de Benijo is one of those places that changes the way you think about Tenerife. Forget the sun loungers and all-inclusive resorts of the south. Here, deep in the Anaga Rural Park, black volcanic sand meets the raw power of the Atlantic, while steep, green-clad cliffs tower above the shore. The jagged rock pinnacles of Roques de Anaga rise from the sea — a scene that has graced the covers of countless photography books.
A wild beach in the Anaga Mountains
Benijo lies on the north-eastern tip of Tenerife, in the Anaga massif — the oldest geological part of the island, covered in laurel forests listed as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The drive itself, along winding mountain roads above sheer drops, is an adventure — the narrow, twisting TF-134 demands full attention, but rewards you with views you will not find anywhere else on the island.
The beach stretches for about 300 metres and is roughly 30 metres wide, though it shrinks significantly at high tide. The sand is intensely black — volcanic in origin — and contrasts dramatically with the white foam of waves crashing against the shore.
Getting down to the beach
A flight of 121 stone steps leads down to the beach, starting right by the restaurants in the village of Benijo. The steps are steep but well maintained. Parking is very limited — there is space for just a dozen or so cars. On weekends and sunny days, it fills up before noon. An alternative is to park at the Almaciga bus stop and walk roughly 15 minutes along the cliff.
Surfers and photographers
Benijo draws two kinds of devotees: surfers and photographers. The waves here can be powerful and consistent, especially in winter when the Atlantic pushes in solid sets. For surfers, it is paradise — though more suited to experienced riders, as currents can be treacherous.
Photographers flock here mainly for the sunsets. When the sun dips below the horizon and the Roques de Anaga stand as dark silhouettes against an orange sky, it is hard to find a more dramatic shot anywhere on Tenerife.
Safety warning
Playa de Benijo is not a swimming beach. Currents are strong and unpredictable, and waves can catch you off guard even on calm-looking days. There are no lifeguards on duty. Dangerous incidents occur here every year. You can safely paddle at the water’s edge, but wading in beyond waist depth is a genuine risk. Take particular care at low tide, when submerged rocks become exposed.
Good to know
- There is a chiringuito (beach bar) by the car park serving local dishes and drinks. The grilled fresh fish comes highly recommended.
- Nudism is tolerated on part of the beach — typically the far (western) end.
- Check the tide table before your visit — at full high tide, the beach can be almost entirely submerged.
- The drive along TF-134 from La Laguna takes about 45 minutes. There is no direct bus service — you will need a car.
Nearby beaches
- Playa de Almaciga — the neighbouring beach, more sheltered, popular with local surfers.
- Playa de Roque de las Bodegas — 5 minutes by car, black sand, breakwaters to protect against waves, showers available.
- Playa de las Teresitas — 30 minutes towards Santa Cruz, imported golden sand from the Sahara, calm water — an excellent alternative for swimming.
Weather at Playa de Benijo
Benijo is a wild beach in the Anaga mountain range in northeastern Tenerife. This region is one of the wettest on the island – the surrounding laurel forests owe their lushness to frequent mist and rainfall. Before setting off, check the current weather around La Laguna.